Unforgettable day in Siena: discover Tuscany’s historic jewel
- Lifestyle
Picture this: It’s a slow morning. You are enjoying a breakfast of fresh-baked breads, jams, and cheeses. Your cappuccino warms your soul and fills your stomach. Maybe later you’ll take a walk through the hotel gardens before heading back up to your room to finish preparing for the day ahead.
Today will be an exciting day. You’ve planned a day in Siena, only a short 36-minute drive by rental car from your luxury hotel in Tuscany. You know today will be filled with beauty and history.
Siena
The city of Siena, located in the center of Tuscany and on the southern border of Chianti, originated as a Republic city-state in the 1100s. Before that, it was a small, unassuming village formed by the ancient Etruscans-specifically, a tribe that called themselves Saina, which scholars suggest might be where Siena got its name.
Always fighting their neighbors, particularly their rivals Florence and Pisa, the city of Siena was built with protection in mind. The ancient city walls still stand today. They are seven kilometers long and contain 12 separate ports for entry into the historic city center. Inside the walls, the city remains much the same as it did in medieval times. The gothic architecture and artworks that fill the beautiful buildings are nearly perfectly preserved. Some of the greatest painters of the 13th-14th centuries (when Siena was at its peak of importance in Italy) were born in Siena, and their greatest works are still on display throughout the city. This includes the likes of Duccio di Buoninsegna, brothers Ambrogio and Pietro Lorenzetti, and Simone Martini. The city of Siena is so well preserved that the historic city center has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.
On your drive from Locanda le Piazze towards the city of Siena, you will pass through the beautiful Chianti region, with rolling hills, olive fields, and vineyards. The entire drive is pleasant and beautiful. As you approach the city center, you will drive along the ancient city walls, eventually passing through a gate and entering the city. Once inside the gates, we recommend finding a place to park and leave your car; then, take on the city by foot. Meander, stop to smell the theoretical roses, or actually stop to smell (and drink) a second cappuccino, and enjoy your stroll as you make your way towards Piazza del Campo.
Piazza del Campo
The main square in Siena is called Piazza del Campo, or “the Campo” for short. It is situated where the three main roads of Siena intersect. In ancient times, it was the place where three separate hilltop towns met in the valley between them. Standing in the center of the piazza and looking all around you, you will notice that all of the buildings lining the square have similar architectural styles and looks. This was not by accident. In 1297, the government of Siena declared that all buildings in the square must observe a strict set of rules, forming one harmonious look.
Contrary to being called a “square” in English, this piazza is not a square shape at all. From a bird’s-eye view, the square looks like a seashell: red bricks outlined in grey with thin lines of white bricks replicating the “grooves” of the shell. These lines meet together at a vertex, pointing towards Palazzo Pubblico, the government seat of Siena. The nine sections of red brick, separated by the white lines, represent the nine ruling governors of the time. Today, Piazza del Campo is most famous around the world for hosting an ancient game called Palio, a fast-paced bareback horse race run around the outskirts of the piazza.
Palazzo Pubblico
The main attraction lining Piazza del Campo is the old government building called Palazzo Pubblico (Public Palace). Today, the building is used to house the Civic Museum. You can purchase tickets for the Civic Museum alone, or, if you think you will walk rather quickly through this museum, get a combined ticket for the Civic Museum and the Torre del Mangia, Santa Maria della Scala Museum, or the National Art Gallery of Siena, or any combination of the above. For the purpose of this itinerary, I suggest the Civic Museum and Torre del Mangia combined ticket.
Palazzo Pubblico is big and beautiful. First built in 1297, this civil seat of authority was the headquarters of the nine governors of the Republic of Siena. Now it is a museum dedicated to the history of Siena. If history doesn’t interest you, don’t fret. The main attraction of this museum isn’t actually the museum’s collection itself. Instead, it is the sight of the interior of the building in which the museum is held. The grandiose walls of Palazzo Pubblico are sure to take your breath away. The ceilings are covered in magnificent frescoes.
Torre del Mangia
Technically a part of the Palazzo Pubblico compound is the Torre del Mangia. The name comes from its old bell ringer, Giovanni di Balduccio. This man was known by the residents of Siena for wasting his money, and the citizens gave him the mean nickname of “Mangiaguadagni” (Earnings-eater), or, “Mangia” for short. This tall tower will replace any cardio workouts you had planned for the day, and offer you the most spectacular bird’s-eye view imaginable of the Tuscan countryside. From the base to the tip of the lightning rod, this tower stands 102 meters high. If you are able-bodied, save your energy for a climb to the top of this tower. More than 200 steps later, you will be rewarded for your efforts with a panoramic view of Siena and the surrounding hilly countryside.
Fun fact: the Tower of Mangia is as tall as the highest point of the Cathedral of Siena. This was by design, to represent the equality of Church and State, publicly signifying that neither one is above the other.
Fountain of Gaia
On the opposite side of Piazza del Campo stands a beautiful fountain. The Fountain of Gaia (joy) is rectangular-shaped and lined with statue figures. Unfortunately, none of those statues are the originals. Instead, the originals are stored, safe and secure, in a museum. The entire fountain is a shrine to the women, animals, and religious stories most dear to the Sienese people. The focal point is a statue of the Madonna and Child. Lining the walls of the fountain are reliefs portraying the biblical story of Genesis. Water spouts out of the mouths of wolves, paying homage to the legendary she-wolf that raised Remus and Romulus.
After visiting Piazza del Campo and climbing the Torre del Mangia, you will, undoubtedly, need a rest break and some food. Stop for lunch at any of the restaurants that fit your fancy. Check the menu for local specialties. I highly recommend any pasta featuring pici.
Duomo di Siena
From Piazza del Campo, it is time to head west, following the signs, to the Duomo of Siena. The Siena Cathedral, more lovingly known as the Duomo by residents, is a glorious architectural feat made of white stone and marble. The Cathedral complex is made up of seven components: the cathedral itself, Piccolomini library, the works museum, the panorama, the crypt, the baptistery, and the Gate of Heaven. Pre-purchased tickets will allow you one-time access to all of the components of the Duomo complex.
Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta
The Cathedral of Siena is officially known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. Standing in the piazza of the Duomo, you can take in the majesty of the massive cathedral. Stepping inside the doors, you will find that the interior is just as, if not even more so, impressive as the exterior. Some of the cathedral’s greatest masterpieces inside include Michelangelo’s Piccolomini altarpiece, Duccio’s Maestà, and Nicola Pisano’s cathedral pulpit.
Biblioteca Piccolomini
This miniature museum of sorts houses historic manuscripts. Even more exciting, however, are the frescoed walls of the room that houses the manuscripts. These frescoes, lining the walls from floor to ceiling (even on the ceiling itself), depict the life of Pope Pius II.
As your day comes to a close in Siena, begin making your way back towards your car. Don’t forget to stop along the way to enjoy a nice dinner. If you find it on the menu, be sure to try ragù made with cinghiale (local wild boar). For dessert, treat yourself to some cantucci with vinsanto. Then, of course, it is time to get back on the road and return to Locanda le Piazze for a good night’s sleep. Tomorrow, another Tuscan adventure awaits you.
